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The Making of Lost – Part 2 Tutorial

Posted by admin On June - 29 - 20101 COMMENT

The Making of Lost – Part 2

Let’s take a look at the image we’ll be creating for this two part series (above): Part 1 on Cgtuts+ and Part 2 will be covered here on Psdtuts+ in today’s final tutorial.

This Post is Day 12 of our Digital Illustration Session. Creative Sessions« Session Day 11Session Day 13 »

Step 1

Expand the canvas horizontally, place the stock mountain image by Sara Moses in the background.

s1

Step 2

Take the stock of the paint splash; adjust the Hue/Saturation to make it yellow and wrap it around the person.

s2

Step 3

Repeat the previous step to achieve the following.

s3

Step 4

If the background is removed at this point, a nice piece can be formed already.

s4

Step 5

Take the stocks of the hands (hand 1 and hand 2 from Duck Dodger) and place them as shown. Merge the two layers of the hands and duplicate that layer two times.

s5

Step 6

Desaturate the first layer; using levels, brighten the image . Then set the layer mode to Multiply.

s6

Step 7

Desaturate the image second layer; using Levels, darken shadows and brighten the highlights. Then set the layer mode to Screen.

s7

Step 8

Duplicate the “background” layer, place it right above the unaltered “hands” layer and use a layer clipping mask between the two layers. Move the background duplication so that mostly green is shown on the hands.

s8

Step 9

Using the Liquify Filter, liquify the background duplication that it adheres to the hands’ contour.

s9

Step 10

Create a new layer and place it above the layer of the base stock (the suit). Select the “suit” layer (Command-click) and fill it with cyan.

s10

Step 11

Selection > Modify > Feather 10 px. Slightly nudge the selection to the left, then down, then press delete.

s11

Step 12

Repeat steps 10 and 11 for the hands.

s12

Step 13

Create a new layer on the very top, set the layer mode to Overlay and loosely paint some parts using a large brush.

S13

Step 14

Export the image as a JPG. In C4D, create a background, apply the image to a new material and apply the material to the background. Make sure the proportion/size of the render is the same as the image exported.

S14

Step 15

Using the spheres created in Part 1 of this tutorial, duplicate them by creating an array and altering its settings to best show the image and strengthen the focal.

s15

Step 16

Render the image. Go back to Photoshop; using the alpha channel, make the spheres into a separate layer and place it in the original file.

s16

Final Image

Slightly adjust the levels of the spheres to achieve the results for this tutorial.

s17

Alternative Final Image

If the background image is removed, this image can be formed; it has a totally different atmosphere and theme.

s18

Conclusion

This is the essence of how I created my piece “lost.” Most of the techniques used are explained in this tutorial. The only method to achieve better results is time. Due to the abstract nature of this piece, a lot of experimentation must be done. The tutorial explains only the techniques used, using these techniques, you can create a result perhaps better than my original piece with determination and time.

This Post is Day 12 of our Digital Illustration Session. Creative Sessions« Session Day 11Session Day 13 »

Textured Female Robot in Photoshop Tutorials

Posted by admin On June - 25 - 2010ADD COMMENTS

Create a Textured Female Robot in Photoshop

Resources

The following resources were used during the production of this tutorial:

Rust #1
Rust #2
Rust torso
Skirt #1
Skirt #2
Copper
Broken glass #1
Broken glass #2

Step 1

Create a new blank document, using the size you want. Activate Snap from the View menu with Shift + Command + ; and hit Command + ‘ to turn on the grid.

Using the Pen Tool (P) in Shape Layer mode draw the head (1a). Make sure all points snap to the grid and all lines lie on the pixels, not across them. This way we’ll avoid anti-aliasing. Using Color Overlay (1b) make the head light pink (1c).

Step 2

Add a Gradient Overlay style (2a, 2b) to simulate metallic reflections (2c).

Step 3

Add some Inner Glow (3a) to simulate ambient reflections and Inner Shadow (3b) to enhance the roundness of the surface. The character is mainly lit from above and ahead so the inner shadow around the top of the head effectively pushes back the outline (3c).

Step 4

Create the neck with a simple, gold rectangle. Again make sure you snap to the grid for perfectly crisp edges (4a). With a Gradient Overlay (4b, 4c) we add reflective highlights. An Inner Shadow (4d) simulates the shadow cast by the head (4e).

Step 5

On to the eyes. Draw a gold circle (5a). Add an Angle Gradient Overlay (5b, 5c) to create a different type of metallic reflection (5d).

Step 6

Using a Stroke set to Inside create the raised border (6a). With an Inner Shadow (6b) and a Drop Shadow (6c) we make the eye protrude from the head (6d).

Step 7

The pupil is a simple orange circle (7a). A Bevel and Emboss set to Down (7b) will make the pupil inset (7c). The Inner Glow set to Center (7d) will turn the eye on (7e).

Step 8

To finish off the pupil we have to add an Inner Shadow (8a) and a purple Outer Glow (8b). The eye is complete so we can duplicate it (8c). Here are the layers so far. It’s important to keep an organized layer structure. Use folders and colors, if you like (8d).

Step 9

Draw the shape for the lips (9a). Using a yellow-to-transparent Gradient Overlay (9b) we highlight the upper lip (9c). Add a Stroke, an Inner Shadow and a Drop Shadow or better yet copy them from the eye to complete the lips (9d).

Step 10

Create the center tooth as a dark brown rectangle (10a). Use Bevel and Emboss (10b) and Inner Shadow (10c) to inset the tooth. It is in fact a slit in the lips (10d). The rest of the teeth are created with copies of the center tooth, shortened vertically with the help of the grid (10e).

Step 11

The torso is a trapezoid (11a). The shading technique is the same as before. Gradient Overlay (11b, 11c), Inner Glow (11d), Inner Shadow (11e). The result is a metallic cone (11f).

Step 12

The skirt has a bell-like profile (12a). Yet another time use Gradient Overlay (12b, 12c), Inner Glow (12d) and Inner Shadow (12e) to shade it (12f).

Step 13

Draw the left arm as a thin metal rod that initially curves out and down from the shoulder and then ends in a straight line (13a). Using a dark Inner Glow (13b) we simulate a rounded surface (13c). With the same method create the hand (13d).

As you can see similar materials are created with the same layer styles. Of course you have to use your judgment and make minor adjustments to the settings to adapt the styles to different shapes and/or dimensions.

Step 14

The hand is attached to the arm via a round joint similar to the eye (14a). Apply a similar Angle Gradient Overlay (14b, 14c) and a slight dark stroke to enhance the edge (14d). The hand is finished (14e).

Step 15

To complete the arm we need to draw a wire that winds around the metal rod. Create a new layer. Draw the spiral with the Pen Tool (P) in Paths mode (15a). Hit B to activate the Brush Tool and then F5 to open the Brushes palette. Pick a hard-edged, round preset and set the Diameter to 2px (15b). Now in the Paths palette right-click on the spiral path and choose Stroke Path. The path will be stroked on the new layer (15c). Mask the spiral where it curves behind the arm (15d).

Step 16

Activate the Dodge Tool (O) and set it to Shadow mode. Paint on the spiral where it faces the view directly. These parts catch highlights and should be almost white (16a). The arm is finished so you can group all its layers. Duplicate the group and flip it horizontally to the other side of the body to create the second arm (16b).

Step 17

It’s time to add some detail to the body parts. The head, the neck, the torso and the skirt are made of metal plates soldered and riveted together.

Create a thin vertical rectangle down the middle of the torso, make it medium gray (17a). Now open the Brushes window (F5) and increase the spacing to about 600%. In the preview you will see the brush stroke change to a trail of dots (17b). Holding down Shift paint a vertical line of rivets along the rectangle (17c). Add a white Drop Shadow (17d) to make the rivets look inset. Duplicate the layer to create a second row of rivets (17e).

Step 18

Add a few more rows of rivets to the torso (18a), place one on the head and on the neck too (18b).

The skirt has no rivets, just horizontal lines carved in it. They have the same white drop shadow as the rivets (18c). Crop the lines with the vector mask from the skirt itself (18d, 18e).

Step 19

The torso is not complete without a big reflective highlight. Draw a white ellipse on top of it (19a) set it to Screen, 35% Opacity and crop it with the torso’s vector mask (19b).

Step 20

In lieu of ears the fembot has small antennas. First create the base of the left ear with a gold rectangle (20a) filled with a Gradient Overlay (20b, 20c). That’s shiny enough (20d).

Step 21

Use an Inner Shadow coming from the left (21a) to simulate the shadow cast by the head (21b). Add a thin rectangle filled with a single two-tone vertical gradient for the antenna to wrap around (21c).

Step 22

Draw a yellow circle at the end of the stick (22a) and use an Inner Glow to make it round (22b. 22c). Create two squashed ellipses, one dark brown and one bright yellow, to complete the ball (22d).

Step 23

Create the small antenna the same way you created the arm. Draw a path (23a), stroke it in white and mask it (23b). Apply an Outer Glow style set to Linear Dodge (23c) to create a very bright glow (23d). The left “ear” is finished so simply mirror the right one (23e).

Step 24

For the leg draw a small rectangle with rounded corners (24a). Fill it with a copper Gradient Overlay (24b, 24c), an Inner Glow (24d) and an Inner Shadow (24e). Duplicate this module several times to complete the leg (24f).

Step 25

The foot joins the leg by way of a small steel ring. You know how to create it by now (25a). Create the foot as a Shape Layer path (25b) and copy and paste the layer style from the leg module. Just modify the Contour of the Inner Shadow (25c) to alter the color variation (25d). The leg is finished so group everything and create the other one.

Step 26

The fembot is finished but it looks too polished. She needs some realistic textures to be really complete.

Place the Rust #1 texture in the document and resize it to fit the head (26a). Set its blending mode to Soft Light and crop it with the head’s vector mask (26b). For the neck use Rust #2 (26c) set to Overlay mode (26d).

Step 27

Place the Rust torso texture on the torso, of course. Set it to Soft Light (27a). The skirt gets both Skirt #1 and Skirt #2 placed on top of each other while the legs and feet get the same rust applied to the head (27b). The fembot looks much better now.

Step 28

No respectable robot has a bare chest, especially a female one. Let’s give her a control panel.

Draw an ellipse (28a) and apply an Angle Gradient Overlay to it (28b). Also add the usual Inner Glow (28c), Inner Shadow (28d) and Drop Shadow (28e).

Step 29

Complete the oval plate by texturing it with Copper (29a). The display is a smaller ellipse (29b) with a bunch of layer styles applied to it (29c).

Step 30

The blank screen (30a) can be filled with a warm “hello” and a couple of status icons (30b). Also add a reflection on the glass by drawing a white crescent set to Screen, 35% Opacity (30c).

Step 31

This step is optional. Open the Broken glass #1 image and go to Select > Color Range. Select Highlights (31a). Hit Command + J to create a new layer from the selection and drag this layer over the fembot’s glass screen. You can add a white Inner Shadow (31b) and a dark Drop Shadow (31c) to simulate depth and of course use Broken glass #2 the same way (31d).

Step 32

Just add a background and a floor of your liking and the fembot will finally be complete.

Conclusion

In this tutorial we used very simple vector shapes and well-thought layer style combinations to create a fun female robot made of metal parts. Since the result was too polished and plastic-looking we added a layer of realism by simply juxtaposing rusty, corroded and dirty textures. Not only do they add life to the materials, they also heighten the realism by providing subtle color changes, realistic surfaces and ambient reflections.

The beauty of this workflow is that the entire character is made of infinitely scalable vectors. For the most part the layer styles will scale with the body parts and the few elements that don’t, the textures, can be obtained in high resolution and require little effort to be applied again should you change the size of the document.

I hope you had fun creating the robot but especially I hope you learned a useful method for creating scalable characters in a raster-based application like Photoshop.

 
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By Andrea Austoni

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Andrea Austoni is an Italian graphic designer currently living in Krakow, Poland. He specializes in icon design and illustration. He runs his blog and portfolio Cute Little Factory, which features Photoshop and Illustrator tutorials and icon, vector and wallpaper freebies. He’s also the Chef at Icon Kitchen.  


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Discussion 18 Comments

everytuesday says:


June 21, 2010 at 9:09 am

“No respectable robot has a bare chest, especially a female one. Let’s give her a control panel.”

love it, and especially your glass cracks, some very helpful tips!

Reply

Peter says:


June 21, 2010 at 9:18 am

Great tut!!!
(first)

Reply

Jeprie says:


June 21, 2010 at 11:19 am

This is great, my favorite stuff.

Reply

Chibbies says:


June 21, 2010 at 11:58 am

Hahahahahahahahahahorrible

Reply

Childmonster says:


June 21, 2010 at 12:11 pm

very nice robot icon. i like her so much :>

Reply

Luis Camargo says:


June 21, 2010 at 12:13 pm

Very detailed tutorial. With very nice and easy techniques. The final result is a very beatiful image.
Nice colors composition, nice textures. Congrats!

Reply

Da Buddha says:


June 21, 2010 at 4:56 pm

I really liked the cracked glass finishing touch.

Reply

Amareloone says:


June 21, 2010 at 5:30 pm

yea! ..me too

Reply

Fabio says:


June 21, 2010 at 5:42 pm

cool! simple but cool!!!

Reply

Klip izle says:


June 22, 2010 at 2:36 am

hello robot’S :D
very nice

Reply

PsdDude says:


June 22, 2010 at 5:14 am

Strange looking lady :)

Reply

Hillary says:


June 22, 2010 at 8:17 am

This is a great way to learn how to use textures and other valuable techniques in photoshop. Thanks for this!

Reply

Dan Wiersema says:


June 22, 2010 at 9:47 am

Great work Andrea!! Love the unique style and colors you used here.

Reply

Andrea Austoni says:


June 23, 2010 at 4:01 am

Hey thanks Dan! You can’t go wrong with dirty metal textures.

Reply

The IconFinder Robot says:


June 22, 2010 at 1:03 pm

She’s hot!

Reply

Andrea Austoni says:


June 23, 2010 at 3:56 am

There you are, already getting ideas!

Reply

Peter says:


June 23, 2010 at 4:00 am

charming girl .i think.

Reply

Melody says:


June 23, 2010 at 3:30 pm

I like your style of tutorial writing (a,b,c,etc), it’s very helpful..

Reply

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Draw an Ink Painting in Photoshop

Posted by admin On June - 25 - 2010ADD COMMENTS

Quick Tip: Draw an Ink Painting in Photoshop

Step 1

First, create a simple drawing in pen or pencil and scan it into your computer. Open Photoshop and separate the drawing from the background by going to Select > Color Range and clicking on the part of the image in the preview that you want to select. You may want to experiment with the “Fuzziness” settings to see what looks best. Generally for hand drawn objects a setting between 90 and 170 works well. Then click “OK” and copy (Cmd/Ctrl + C) and paste (Cmd/Ctrl + V) the drawing onto a new layer. Make sure to name it appropriately so it does not get lost.

Step 2

Now choose a pastel (#ffddff) background for the image and start shading in the drawing. Create a new layer and call it “Shading”. Then chose a hard round brush, set the Opacity to around 20% and press F5 for further refinement. In Shape Dynamics set Size Jitter to 50% and leave everything else in that section at 0%. In Scattering set Count Jitter to 100%, Count to 1 and Scatter to 75% (both Axes). In Other Dynamics set both Opacity and Flow Jitter to 20% (Pen Pressure). And most importantly put a check in the “Wet Edges” box.

The size of the brush you use depends greatly on the image that you are working on; sizes 15 and 10 were used on the image below. Use larger brushes first to make the light base. Then go back over the spots you think should be darker with a smaller brush, you may repeat the process decreasing the size of the brush you use for as long as it seems appropriate.

Step 3

After the shading is done it’s time to work on the highlights. Create another layer on top of “Shading”, called “Highlights” and use a medium sized brush to draw in the highlights in white.

Final Step

Now come the final touches. In the image below, I’ve made the pavement with the pen tool and added shadows and highlights to it. I’ve also drawn a darker shadow under the umbrella, all using the same brushes and the same technique of layering as before. And finishing the picture I’ve added some falling petals in pink. This was done again with the same technique and brush though increasing the “Scattering” in the brush settings to 500%.

 
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By Olga Pikul

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Discussion 9 Comments

Rob says:


June 24, 2010 at 12:41 pm

Interesting tut. Very simple.
I’m quite sure you can use a lot of time making a lot of creative and interesting pictures with this technique.

Reply

Melody says:


June 24, 2010 at 12:42 pm

Cool, makes me want to pick up the real thing and get started!

Reply

Tutorial Lounge says:


June 24, 2010 at 12:57 pm

really cool idea. thanks

Reply

Shaun says:


June 24, 2010 at 2:21 pm

Very nice. Needs a nice and subtle canvas texture to complete it, though.

Reply

ExtremRaym says:


June 24, 2010 at 3:18 pm

nice way to colorize :P

Reply

Da Buddha says:


June 24, 2010 at 3:53 pm

Nice and simple, it looks great ;)

Reply

Christopher says:


June 24, 2010 at 3:55 pm

Very nice and original. Great content.

Reply

logolitic says:


June 24, 2010 at 4:12 pm

romantic.. very nice

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Childmonster says:


June 25, 2010 at 2:20 am

I really like your idea… Thanks :D

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Create an Adrenaline Filled Car Chase Scene

Posted by admin On June - 18 - 2010ADD COMMENTS

Create an Adrenaline Filled Car Chase Scene

Resources

The following images were used during the production of this tutorial.

Background
Sports Car
Cop Car
Gunman

Preparation

First we need to look at some photographs of cars in motion for reference so that our portrayal is accurate. Here, here, here and here are some good references from photographers on deviantart. If you search the internet I’m sure there are more examples to find. We will be trying to create an image like those but with things being blown up and cars being shots at.

Please note that brush sizes are not given as I usually just increase or decrease them using [ and ] respectively till I get an appropriate size rather than just using a certain size. Colours are given with a # in front of them. In terms of brushing Soft Brush usually refers to a round brush with a soft or blurry edge while a Hard Brush is referring to a round brush that has a well defined border.

Step 1

Open up Background.jpg in a new document. As you can see its quite a high resolution picture and this will enable us to work at a high resolution which has its advantages in being able to add more details and being able to print at larger sizes. On the other hand it be slower to use filters and others tools especially if your PC is slightly older and slower. Its a trade off and you have to choose how big you want to work and resize to a desired size using Image > Image Size. The rest of the tutorial is in relative to this layer so you can choose whatever size you think works best for you.

Step 2

Open up Sports Car stock in a new document. We need to isolate the car from its background. Use your preferred selection technique to select the white background of the Sports Car stock. Personally I prefer using the Pen Tool (P) to manually select the background. After selecting the background you can remove it by adding a Layer Mask to it. I prefer isolating stock in a separate document to the main file because it means you don’t have to resize the stock, because of differences in canvas size between the stock and main file, before isolating it.

Step 3

Import the Sports Car image into the file with Background.jpg. Using the Free Transform Tool (Ctrl+T) flip the car horizontally by adding – before the figure in the W: box. Then resize, move and rotate the car so that it fits into the background better, don’t worry if it isn’t perfect at this stage as well will be modify the car a lot in subsequent sets. You can see some of the numbers I used for making the car fit in the image below.

Note: Don’t be fooled by the – in front of the H: box, I had initially put the – in the W but the rotation added after changed it to a minus in the H box.

Step 4

Duplicate the Background Layer. If you look at the references in the introduction you can see the background is blurred and to achieve this we are going use Filter > Blur > Radial Blur on the duplicated layer. The settings used are shown in the image below. It is very important to get the blur center absolutely right, keep doing and undoing the Radial Blur until the center looks correct to give a good perspective on the road.

Step 5

Add a layer mask to the duplicated Background layer and using a Soft Black Brush at about 20% opacity brush into the layer mask to remove some of the blur to bring out some details from the background.

Step 6

Now we are going to go back to the Sports Car layer to make it fit better into the scene. Start by transforming it using Edit > Transform > Perspective and Edit > Transform > Skew. There is no exact method to this, just use the various transforming tools to make the perspective and proportions of the car fit into the scene.

Step 7

Now we are going to the blur the wheels of the car so they look as if they are in motion. Select the rear rims using the Pen Tool (P) and use Filter > Blur > Radial Blur. For settings have Blur Amount: 10, Blur Method: Spin and Blur Center slightly down and left of centre.

Afterwards select the front rims in the same way and apply Radial Blur but this time with Blur Amount: 50, Quality: Best and Blur Center slightly up and right of center

Step 8

Now we are going to remove the white in the car windows. Select the white areas using the Magic Wand Tool with a tolerance of 32, Shift + Left Click to add multiple areas. This will also select some of the white of the card hood. Deselect it by using the lasso tool around it while holding the Alt key. Then delete by pressing the delete key.

Erase some of the seat seen through the front window using a Soft Brush at about 20% Opacity. We will be going back to the windows at a later stage so don’t worry too much about the details.

Step 9

Now to a add to shadow to the underside of the car. Create a New Layer (Ctrl + Shift + N), name it “Soft Shadow” and drag it under the “Sports Car” layer. Start with a Soft Black Brush at 100% Opacity and brush the underside of the car using a Soft Eraser at 100% Opacity to erase any mistakes.

Add a Radial Blur Filter to the layer with Blur Amount: 50, Blur Method: Zoom, Quality: Medium and the Blur Center roughly the same as we used for the background in Step 4. Now set the layer Blending Mode to Soft Light and the Opacity to 75%. If any areas look like they need more shadow add it with a Soft Black brush at 20% Opacity.

Step 10

Create a New Layer above the “Soft Shadow” and name it “Hard Shadow.” Get a Soft Blue (#00ffff) Brush and brush in the immediate underside of the car. Apply a Radial Blur to it with the same settings as the last step but with Amount: 30. Set this layer to Hard Light with Opacity 10%.

Step 11

Now to fix the lighting. Use Image > Adjustments > Brightness/Contrast with Brightness: -75 and Contrast :5. Then using Dodge and Burn tools at Range: Midtones and Exposure:20% give the car some highlight and shadows.

Step 12

Make a New Group (Cmd + G). Name it “Window” and drag it above the “Sports Car” layer. Create a New Layer in it and using a soft black brush at 70% Opacity brush in the side of the windows to make them slightly darker, this will be the shading for the windows. Then set the layer to Opacity 50% .

Create a New Layer (Cmd + Shift + N) above the previous then using a Soft Brush at 100% Opacity with # 2b1e05 brush in all the windows. Set the Blend Mode to Soft Light and Opacity to 70%.

In another new layer using a Soft Brush at 100% Opacity with # 103624 brush in all the windows like before. This time set the Blend Mode to Hard Light and Opacity to 80%.

Step 13

Lets add some reflections in the windows. Create a New Group (Cmd + G), name it reflection and drag it under the “Windows” group. Create a new layer in the new group and using the Eye Dropper Tool (I) select some coloured highlights from the background and brush them into the front windows with a Hard Round Brush at 100% Opacity.

Then do a Filter > Blur > Blur Motion to this layer with Angle : -9 and Distance: 30. Now there will be bit of ‘reflection’ on the car and background. To get rid of this we are going to select the layer below, with the # 103624 windows, by Cmd + Left Click on it and then selecting inverse with Cmd + Shift + I and deleting to remove colour outside the windows. Then change the layer to Hard Light and Opacity to 60%

Now we are going to do the same thing to the side windows on a new layer. The only difference is that the motion blur is at Angle: 5 this time.

Step 14

Lets add some motion blur to the car to give it a sense of movement. Duplicate the Sports car layer and move into a New Group called “Blur” above the “Reflection” group. While the layer is select do Layer > Layer Mask > Apply, if you isolated with a Layer Mask. This leaves the layer with just the car with no white background and no layer mask. Apply a Filter > Blur > Motion Blur to it with Angle: -9, Distance: 50.

Duplicate the layer with the motion blur. Set the original layer with the motion blur to 40% Opacity. On the duplicated layer using a Soft Eraser at 100% Opacity erase the parts of the blur which are covering the car and the repeat the Motion Blur filter by pressing Cmd + F.

Step 15

Let’s add some lights to the car. Make a new Group called “Front Lights” and drag it to the top of all the other layers. Select All (Cmd + A) and Copy Merged (Cmd + Shift + C). This is layer is not going to be part of the final image, its only use is to help get the center of the Filter > Render > Lens flare where light would leave the head lights. Click ok on the filter and check that the flare is coming from where it should be and then delete the layer.

Create a new layer and fill it with black. Go to Filter > Render > Lens Flare and this time keep the flare center the same as before but change the brightness to 40% and Lens Type to 105mm Prime. Then change the Blend Mode to Linear Dodge and Opacity to 25%. We need to illuminate the light on the cars left side as well so on the same layer do another Lens Flare but this time have the Flare Center slightly right and above the previous one and the Brightness: 20%. You can use another Copy Merged layer to get the position of the Flare Center spot on if you want.

Step 16

Create a New Layer above the previous one with the flares and using a Soft Brush with #6dcff6 and 80% Opacity brush around the two headlights. Set this layer to Hard Light with 50% Opacity.

Step 17

Using a Soft White Brush at 100% draw three lines on the near head light as seen on the image below. Then do a Radial Blur to the layer with the same Blur Center as we used for the background, Blur Quality: Medium and Blur Amount: 50. Name the layer “Head Light”.

Step 18

Duplicate the “Head Light” layer. Using the Free Transform Tool (Ctrl + T) resize and rotate it like in the image below. Select both the “Head Light” Layer and the “Head Light Copy” Layer and then Right Click on them and Merge Layers. Name the merged layer “Head Light Right”

Step 19

Duplicate the “Head Light Right” layer and using the Free Transform Tool (Ctrl + T) move it and resize it so it fits well into a role as the left head light. Name this “Head Light Left”. Using a Soft Eraser at 100% Opacity erase the parts of the light that would be blocked by the car. The lights are a little too bright so change both Head Light layers Opacity to 80%

Step 20

Create a New Layer above the previous one with the light and using a Soft Brush with #fff200 and 100% Opacity brush around the two headlights. Set this layer to Overlay with 10% Opacity.

Step 21

Now make a new Group called “Rear Lights” and you guessed it we are going to put the rear lights here. Duplicate the “Head Light Right” and using the Free Transform Tool (Ctrl + T) move, rotate and resize it so it fits in as the light from the rear. Duplicate this layer and rotate it and resize it again as shown below. Right click on this duplicated layer and Merge Down. Name this new layer “Head Light Rear” and change its opacity to 70%.

Step 22

Create a New Layer above “Head Light Rear” and using a Soft Brush with #fd8a8a and 100% Opacity brush around on the rear headlight.. Set this layer to Vivid Light with 25% Opacity.

Step 23

Create a New Group called “Floor”. Drag it below the two head light groups. Zoom out of the image to about 50%. Using the Pen Tool (P) draw a line from outsize the bottom right corner to the where the blur center from the radial blur is.

Now to change the Brush Preset which you can find in the Brushes window, to access it you have to have the Brush Tool (B) selected. Load the Square Brushes brush set which should be one that comes as standard with Photoshop and choose the biggest square brush. Then change the settings as shown in the image below (adjust the Brush Size and Spacing to the needs of the canvas size your working on but the other settings should be the same).

When the Brush Presets have been set go to the Pen Tool (P) again and right click on the image and select Stroke path. In the next box choose Brush and tick the Stimulate Pressure box. You should now have some road lines. Move and rotate the lines with the Free Transform tool so they fit in better and then do a Radial Blur on them with the same Blur Center as for the background with 50% on Amount.

Then using the Eraser at 100% opacity erase parts of the lines to make it look like its fading in to the distance. Set the layer to Hard Light and 75% Opacity and to finish name the layer “Road Markings” so you don’t forgot what it is in the future.

Step 24

In a new layer, paint on various bright colours selected from the background using the Eyedropper Tool (I) to the side of the car and the road. Use a variety to bright colours on the car body for highlights while using mainly red on the floor. Use Cmd + F to repeat the previous Radial Blur filter to blend the colours in nicely and then set the layer to Overlay and 20% Opacity.

Step 25

Make a New Layer called “Front Light”. Using a White Soft Brush of varying size and opacity as shown in the image below brush in the some more light coming from the head light. Then using a small black brush draw some black lines into the white light to give it depth. Do a Radial Blur to the layer with the same settings as before expect Blur Amount: 30 to blend it all together and then set the layer to Hard Light 15%.

Step 26

The left side of the road looks a little too bright so lets make it darker. Make a New Layer and using a Soft Black Brush at 100% Opacity brush in the areas that look a little too light. Set this layer to Overlay and 25% Opacity and using a large Soft Eraser at 25% Opacity to brush away the parts that are darker than they should be. Use your own discretion, Cmd + Z is your friend.

There is still a very light area left (pointed out above) which is from the background and we need to cover it up. Create a new layer and using some of the brown tones from the background by way of the Eyedropper Tool (I) colour in the ground with a 100% Opacity Soft Brush. Use a Soft Eraser at 20% Opacity to make it blend in with the background.

Step 27

That’s it for this car. Make a New Group called the “Leading Car” and drag all the Groups with their layers from the previous steps, expect for “Background”. This is just to keep the file organized as we will still need to add a lot more elements to complete the piece. Create a New Group called Explosion and place under ” Leading Car” but above “Background”.

Step 28

Create a New Layer in the “Explosion” Group. We could use a stock to make the explosion but its more interesting to create our own and I feel this will fit the piece better as well even if it may not be that realistic. First select a Soft Round Brush and go into Brush Presets and give it the settings below.

Now we are going to brush in the basic shape and colour of the explosion. I have outlined below the steps that I used as well as the colours, a brush of Opacity 100% was used throughout. This part is all about trial and error, the beauty of working on a computer is you that you can use Undo. After the brushing is done apply a Zoom Radial Blur of Amount:40, with the same center as earlier. to the layer.

Step 29

Move and Free Transform the layer so that the explosion fits into the scene better, you want it to be where the horizon would be. Create a New Layer and drag it below the one with the explosion. Use a 60% Opacity Soft Brush with #f3d711 to brush under the explosion on this layer, and then reduce the brush opacity to 10% and use Black to give the yellow some shadows. Select the layer above, Right Click and Merge Below and name the layer “Boom!”.

Step 30

Add a Layer Mask to the “Boom!” layer and remove the bottom part of the explosion by painting with a black brush inside the layer mask. Then Create a New Layer and Right Click on it and select Create Clipping Mask. We are to shade the explosion below in this layer so use a black brush with low opacity to add shadows and a white brush for highlights.

Then use a Hue/Saturation (Cmd + U) on the “Boom!” layer with Hue: +3 Saturation: -15 & Lightness: -3.

Use the Dodge and Burn (Midtones) tools on the layer to accentuate the shadows and highlights to give more depth. The dark spots also looked out of place so use a small eyedropped Soft Yellow Brush of 30% Opacity to hide them.

Step 31

To finish of the explosion Create a New Layer and draw a big dot around the explosion with a Soft #fff000 Brush at 100% Opacity, this will be the glow from the explosion. Erase the bottom half of the glow with a 20% Opacity Soft Eraser and set the layer to Overlay at 20%.

Step 32

Now lets add a car chasing the leading car to give the piece even more drama. Create a New Group and name it “Police”. Place it above the “Explosion” Group but under the “Leading Car” one.

Open the Cop Car stock and isolate the car from background like you did for the Sports Car and similarly duplicate it into the file we are working on. Drag it into the “Police” group and use the Free Transfrom (Cmd + T) tool to resize and move it into a appropriate position for it to be in pursuit of the Sports Car. Name the layer “Cop Car”

Step 33

Let’s transform this Cop Car just like we did for the Sports Car. The tools used can be found under Edit > Transform. The steps are shown in the image below.

Step 34

Go to Image > Adjustments > Brightness/Contrast on the layer with Brightness: -12 and Contrast: -26. Then create a New Layer and add it as a Clipping Mask. In this new layer use a Soft #fff000 Brush with 30% brush in the right side of the Cop Car (your left) to show the light it would be receiving from the explosion in the background.

Step 35

Now let’s add shadows to the Cop Car just like we did for the Sports Car. Create a New Layer under the “Cop Car” layer and name it “Soft Shadow”. Using a Soft Black Brush at 100% Opacity lets colour in a Shadow. When done use a Zoom Radial Blur filter on it with the same center as always with Amount: 50. Set this layer to Soft Light at 75% Opacity.

Step 36

Create a New Layer above the “Soft Shadow” and name it “Hard Shadow” just like for the Sports Car but this time use a Soft Black Brush to brush in the immediate underside. Leave the Blend Mode on just Normal this time but change the Opacity to 80%

Step 37

Create a new New Group within “Police” and name it “Lights”, this new sub group needs to be above the others layer in “Police”. Create a New Layer in it and name it “Head Lights”. Using a White Soft Brush at 100% Opacity paint two dots that cover the two headlight/ Then reduce the opacity to 50% but increase the brush size to almost double its original size and paint on the two dots to give them a glow. Change this is layer’s Opacity to 80% to finish giving the Cop Car head lights.

Step 38

Create a New Layer above “Head Lights” and name it “Red”. We are going to make the red portion of the Cop Car’s emergency light on this layer. Using a Red (#ff0000) Soft Brush at 100% Opacity paint a big red dot on left emergency light on the top of the car and the right emergency light on the grill of the car. Then reduce the Brush Opacity to 50% and brush around these two dots to give them a glow then set the layer to Overlay.

Step 39

Now Create a New Layer above “Red” and name it “Blue”. Using a Blue (#0000ff) Soft Brush at 100% Opacity paint big dot like before on top of the car and the grill but on the opposite side this time. Then reduce the Brush Opacity to 30% and brush around these two dots to give them a glow but don’t make it as wide as the red glow because emergency lights often work out of phase to each other so one light will be bright on one side of the will the other will be bright on the other side of the car which we can’t see. Then set the layer to Soft Light.

Step 40

That’s it for the Cop Car. Now let’s add a gun man in the leading car shooting at the cop cops, what’s an action seen without some gunfire? Create a New Group and named it “Gunman” and place it above the “Leading Car” group.

Open the Gunman stock and isolate him from background just like you did for the two stocks previously and similarly duplicate him into the file. Drag it into the “Gunman” group and using the Free Transform (Cmd + T) tool resize and move it so it looks like the man is leaning out of the window.

Step 41

Now its time to get transforming again. You should know the drill by now; the process is shown in the images below.

Step 42

If you isolated the image with a Layer Mask go into it if not make a new one on the layer with the stock. Using a Black Brush of 80% mask the bit of the gunman that would be seen through the glass. Use a 100% opaque Brush to mask parts that would be hidden by the car.

Step 43

Use Dodge & Burn (Midtones) to shade the gunman. A little guide and side by side comparison of before and after is given below.

Step 44

Create a New Group within the “Gunman” group and name it “Bullets”. Make a New Layer called “Light Trail” in it. Now we are going to paint on some gunfire coming from the gun. For this we are going to use a brush that comes as standard with Photoshop, to find in the brush selection menu choose Reset Brushes and from the selection of brushes choose the one shown below. Choose a appropriate brush size to cover the barrel of the gun and paint on top of it with 100% Opacity in White. Then use [ to decrease brush size and paint the trail of light coming from the barrel of the gun. Apply a Filter > Blur > Motion Blur to this layer with Angle: 4 and Distance: 5 to finish off the “Light Trail”.

Step 45

To finish off the bullets let’s add some glow to them. Get a Soft #fff200 Round Brush at 100% and draw a big dot around with the centre where the light trail is. Reduce the brush Opacity to 50% and draw an even bigger dot on top of the one you just drew. Use a 70% Opacity Round Eraser and eraser the yellow from where the light would be obstructed by the car and set the layer to Vivid Light Opacity 30%.

Step 46

That’s it for the piece as far as adding elements are concerned. Hopefully you have learned quite a bit already. Now all we have to do is polish up the piece with a few adjustments to finish it off. Below is the image so far. Make a New Group called “Adjustments” on top of all the other groups and you guessed it we are going to put our Adjustment Layers here.

Step 47

Adjustment Layers can be reached either by Layer > New Adjustment layer or by clicking on the black/white icon in the Layers window which is shown below. Most of these adjustments are to finish the piece to my personal preference. Experiment with the adjustments settings as they have a big visual impact on the final product, I will outline what I did below.

Let’s start of off with a Levels layer. The aim of the layer is improve the contrast in the piece and the values used are shown below.

Afterwards make a Black and White Adjustment Layer with the values give in the image and set that layer to Overlay 15%.

Step 48

Now let’s add some Gradient Maps to the piece, they too can be found under Adjustment Layers. In the Box for Gradient Map click on the drop down menu and then the arrow and choose Color Harmonies 1. In this selection of gradients use the orange and blue one shown below and set layer on Color at 15% Opacity.

Now add another Gradient Map from the Color Harmonies 1 set called Red-Orange, Blue-Green. On Gradient options tick Reverse and press OK. Erase the parts of the Gradient Map that affect the more foreground elements of the piece and then set it to Soft Light 20%. This will help give the piece more depth.

Step 49

We are now going to create our penultimate layer. We are going to start this layer differently by first changing the layer blend mode Soft Light and Opacity to 30%, this is to enable us to directly see the effect this layer will have on the rest of the picture. Now use the Gradient Tool with a White to Black, Radial Gradient on 100% Opacity to make a gradient as shown in the image. The aim of this layer is to increase the attention given to the foreground elements by lighting them while darkening the background ones.

Step 50

This is will be our last layer, finally! Select All (Cmd + A), Copy Merged (Cmd + Shift + C) and Paste (Cmd +V) to get a layer with the image so far. Do a Filter > Other > High Pass with a Radius of 1.0 and set it to overlay to give the image a slight sharpen to finish it off.

Conclusion

So that’s it! See all the action we can create from just four stationary pieces of stocks. Hope it was an interesting read for you and that you have picked up some nifty tips, tricks and techniques you can use and even improve upon to great create future works.

Perspective Basics: A Draw-Through Technique, With a Spaceship – Basix

Step 1

Even without special equipment and measurements, we can easily repeat a quadrilateral towards a vanishing point. Let’s start off with a basic scenario that will evolve a little as we proceed.

Assuming you know the basics of one, two, and three-point perspectives, we’ll begin with a rectangle drawn in one-point perspective – aiming to repeat it towards the vanishing point.

Step 2

Draw a cross using the corners to establish the center of the rectangle.

Step 3

Using this center point, we now know where the center of the x-axis would be (green), but more importantly the center of the y-axis (yellow).

Step 4

Starting from the lower left corner we can strike a line through the center of the y-axis we just established, stopping at the vanishing point line (black). Starting from the upper left corner would work the same, as long as the line passes through the middle.

Step 5

Can you see what just happened? We successfully found the corner of the next rectangle. Draw a line directly downwards to finish the rectangle off, like in the example below. This technique is extremely useful and could be used in one-point perspective drawing things such as walls, floor tiles, cabinets, etc.

Step 6

As long as we have the corner, we can repeat this technique as much as we like, eventually ending up very small near the vanishing point. There are obviously digital transform tools and such to achieve this effect much quicker but this makes for another check-box in your skills list, especially when working on paper.

Step 7

Let’s try that technique with a second vanishing point (two-point perspective). As you can see in the example below, there’s a purple vanishing point (to the right) and a black vanishing point (off the image, to the left).

Step 8

Again, if we find the center of the y-axis (yellow), we can use that information to strike a line from a corner through it to reveal where the next shape’s opposite corner would be. Any combination of corners and center lines work but only for their individual sides, so try it out for yourself!

Step 9

If we continue the black lines, we can use the purple vanishing point to see when the purple lines at the bottom collide with the black vanishing point’s line. This gives us the information to map out what these repeating shapes look like on the other side.

Step 10

Now let’s jump to a three-point perspective. The rule for joining the corners of the vertical lines (red) still applies, as the center line (yellow) can still be drawn with an initial cross (faded blue).

Step 11

As demonstrated, this technique can be used to repeat geometry very effectively and in large scales, accurately as well. Just don’t get your axes all mixed up! If it helps, then by all means visually differentiate the separate axes like the example below.

Step 12

Now that we’ve learned that simple technique, we’ll use it to draw a spaceship :) This is just to show accuracy though, so don’t judge the design. (If the accuracy doesn’t impress you however, that’s clearly because I’m doing it strictly to show off the design) So, let’s pick a thumbnail and get drawing! I think design two has some nice clear forms.

Step 13

To make things easier, the perspective lines will be drawn as a consistent reference. In the example, I’ve drawn some thin lines with the Brush Tool (B) on a New Layer (Ctrl+Shift+N or Cmd+Shift+N) and used the Transform Tool (Ctrl+T or Cmd+T) to lift a corner up, mimicking the existing yet rough perspective in the drawing. The lines can be kept straight while drawing by holding down Shift.

Step 14

The same is done for the second vanishing point and both opacities are lowered in the Layers Palette (F7) giving us a clearer view of our own line art.

Step 15

The sketch is still too apparent and would interfere heavily with my weak and precious drawing to come. Use the Hue/Saturation (Ctrl+U or Cmd+U) window to slide the Lightness values higher.

Step 16

The canvas feels quite limited so let’s use the Crop Tool (C) to extend the canvas space. In the example below I’ve dragged across the entire image with Left-click and then dragged the center-bottom control point lower, pressing Enter to perform the crop.

Step 17

Let’s drag the perspective lines down with the Move Tool (V) and draw on top of those. We can keep the rough sketch above as a visual reference. If you’ve got multiple layers to handle like in the example, you can hold Ctrl or Cmd and Left-click the layers you want to highlight to move.

Step 18

When drawing complex shapes, it is often crucial knowing where on the ground it is for reference. We’re essentially mapping out a lot of the actual spaceship’s virtual form, not just simply the lines we can see.

Let’s dot in the height of the ship’s nose and neck. By following the axis, we can see the spatial relationships of the dots. I’ve added a third vanishing point as well as some colours to differentiate the three axis.

Step 19

Let’s focus on establishing the points in the example labeled ‘A’ and ‘B’. We can estimate ‘A’ judging from the sketch above, but what will be challenge is finding out where to dot in ‘B’. This is where we’ll use the new technique we just learned.

Step 20

Let’s extend a line from ‘A’ to show the blue axis associated with it (blue line). Then we’ll pick a point from the noise that’s of equal height to ‘A’ and extend a line from it to show its brown axis (brown line). Now we have another corner and a perfect square.

Step 21

This square is touching the center line, now all we need to do is repeat this square towards the brown vanishing point once to reveal where the symmetrical equivalent to point ‘A’ would be. Does this feel familiar? Let’s make a cross using the four corners.

Step 22

We have the middle point we need (circled red).

Step 23

Now strike a line from a corner through that middle point until it touches the same brown vanishing point line as ‘A’, as shown in the example. When it touches, we can repeat the square shape and thus, we have B.

Step 24

We can draw in the shape of the fuselage because we have the three points. Very nice.

Step 25

Yes. Very nice, moving on…

Step 26

Let’s do a similar process for the upper tip of the wings now. I’ve flipped the canvas in the example because I find it more convenient to strike lines in that direction. You can do this by choosing Image > Rotate Canvas > Flip Canvas Horizontally.

Step 27

We’ll extend the lower left corner upwards along the blue axis towards the vanishing point, then along the brown axis until it hits the center line. Now we have a square once again. Remember, it is very important that the heights of the corners are symmetrically consistent, otherwise the new point on the other side of the center line will be miscalculated.

Step 28

The same simple steps as before – make a cross with two lines using the four corners, like in the example below. Make sure it’s fairly accurate.

Step 29

Now we have a center point, we’ll run a line through it along the brown axis to find the mid-point, which in the example, is on the center line.

Step 30

From the lower left corner, we can draw a line through that mid-point we just revealed until it hits the brown line at the back of the spaceship. Using that point we can extend a line from it along the blue axis until it hits the brown axis of the original corner again.

Step 31

With the three main points that we established on Step 24, we can run a line on the blue axis from each point until it hits the back of the spaceship (brown line). The point representing the upper tip of the fuselage stops when it collides with the height (green axis).

Step 32

The back of the spaceship isn’t as wide as the front, so we’ll place a point it where it looks ideal, then begin the technique to reveal the point on the other side of the center line.

Step 33

A little quicker this time. Find the center point. Find the mid-point on the side.

Step 34

Run a line through it.

Step 35

Now we have the upper points for both outer ends of the wings, we can join them together.

Step 36

Then the back-end points to the fuselage.

Step 37

There’s some small air intakes on the wings which will be trickier but will follow the same rules. The points just need to be drawn one by one, starting with ‘A’. We have to make sure the boxes for each point are in line with the center line.

For points ‘A’ to ‘D’, we’ll extend a line along the blue axis until it hits the brown line. ‘E’ is a different height so we can’t just run a line along the wing like the others. Instead we’ll draw a line along the brown axis straight towards the center line.

Things are about to get pretty messy, so I’d highly recommend either using layers for your guides or erasing them after you’re done with it.

Step 38

From the 5 points we just established, we can dot-to-dot them together.

Step 39

Then using the same technique, we can establish the points for the wings, too.

Step 40

And the large air intakes under the wings :)

Step 41

We’ve already dotted in the point for the tip of the nose, now it’s just a case of joining them. We could place dots around the first curve and match them perfectly on the other side of the center line using the same technique as before, but you’re getting pretty good at that now :)

Step 42

It’s getting a little too messy now. Let’s grab all the scruffy guide lines and lighten them. Select the layer with the scruffy lines and click the Create New Fill Or Adjustment Layer icon, then choose Levels.

Step 43

In the Output Levels section, slide the black triangle to the right to lighten the darker values until it’s light enough to draw a cleaner revision over the top. If the result isn’t being previewed as you make the change, you may have the Preview option unchecked or you may have accidently made a selection prior to this step. Use Ctrl+D or Cmd+D to deselect the current selection.

Step 44

With the old lines in, we can trace over it on a new layer with some nice, clean line art. If it suits your purpose though, you can leave the underlying line art in, maybe lower the opacity a little for a rough blueprint-esque look.

Step 45

You may have noticed, I erased the box guide lines earlier for the air intakes and elevons as the images would otherwise have been extremely cluttered, like this!

Step 46

Thank Photoshop for layers.

Step 47

As you can imagine, with this clean sketch you can take it further to more polished levels. It’s often very useful to have a clean line-art, working great with tasks such as vector tracing and shading with selection tools.

Conclusion

Be it for a design, illustration or just for leisure, you can use this new technique to assist you with your work. If you were trying to communicate designs quickly it wouldn’t be realistic to try and incorporate this technique perfectly every time. But I hope that learning this may improve your overall work flow where you need it :)

I hope you’ve learned something in this tutorial – feel free to comment any questions or share your own samples!

Colorize a Comic Strip With Photoshop

Posted by admin On June - 18 - 20101 COMMENT

Quick Tip: Colorize a Comic Strip With Photoshop

Step 1

The first step is to sketch out your idea. You can sketch your idea to paper or you can draw directly in Photoshop.

Step 2

Once you have completed your sketch, you now need to ink your drawing. In this step you will need to trace over your lines with a nice black or dark blue pen and erase your pencil lines. You want to do this so you have clean lines that you can use to color your artwork later on.

Step 3

Now scan your artwork into Photoshop. Scan it in at 300 dpi, RGB, TIFF or JPG in grayscale if possible.

Step 4

Once you have imported your sketch into Photoshop, crop it (if necessary), desaturate it (Image > Adjustments > Desaturate) and open the Levels panel (Image > Adjustments > Levels) and adjust it as shown. The key here is to increase the amount of contrast and remove any unnecessary artifacts. You may also need to zoom in and erase any dust or specs left over from the scan. This is also a great place to clean up any of the line work. Use a black brush to do this.  

Now let’s organize our layers. What we will do in this step is place the scanned artwork at the top of our layer stack, lock it, and set its blending mode to multiply. This will allow us to color the layers below it without having to extract it from the white background. Finally, organize your layers as shown below. Your layer stack may not look identical. The key here it to organize your layers so you can find them later on.

Step 5

Now we can start to add color to our artwork. Select a hard brush and zoom in to a comfortable magnification. Start brushing in color where necessary but be careful not to color outside of the lines. Keep your keyboard handy so you can quickly flip between the Brush (B), Eraser (E), and Hand Tools (Space Bar). A tablet will seriously help you color your artwork; so if you have one, use it.

Feel free to use the magic wand tool to select and fill large areas. To do this, select the Magic Wand Tool (W) in Continuous Mode, Tolerance set to 100, with the Sample All Layers selected. Click inside the area you want to fill and then click Select >  Modify > Expand and choose 1, 2 or 3 pixels, depending on the thickness of the pen you used. Now select Edit > Fill and choose the color you want. The image below shows the selection in mask mode (in red).

Note : don’t use Fill in mask mode, because it will select the whole picture instead of colorizing the selection.


Step 6

Now add some text to your artwork if necessary. Feel free to draw in some nice speech balloons. I used the Manuscript Font below.

Step 7

You can add some shadows and highlights to your artwork in this step. Shadows and Highlights can be tough to master so feel free to experiment here. There are several ways to produce shadows and highlights. The Pen Tool may be useful if you want to produce a hard shadow or highlight. A Soft brush on the other hand will produce a nice soft lighting. Use clipping masks with their blending modes set to multiply or screen to produce a nice, non-destructive effect.

Final Image

Take a look at the final image below.

Time Saving Techniques

You can save time by using some of the shortcuts listed below.

(B) : Brush
(E) : Eraser
(I) : Eyedropper Tool
(X) : Invert background and foreground color.
(Q) : Mask Mode
(H) : Hand
(W) : Wand Tool
(Cmd/Ctrl + D) : Deselect
(Alt + Right Click + Mouse Up or Down) : Increase or Decrease the Brush Hardness
(Alt + Right Click + Mouse Left or Right) : Increase or Decrease the Brush size

Enhance The Workspace

Keeping the swatches palette open while you color is always useful. Especially if you are coloring a series of comics and want to have some standard colors for the skin and clothing.

The navigation panel is also helpful, as it will allow you to adjust the magnification and pan throughout your artwork on the fly.

Use Actions

Actions are also quite helpful if you find yourself repeating the same processes over and over again. Plus Members will find a set of actions included in their download as an example. Descriptions of these actions are below.

The Colorize Action

This action will expand a selection by 1 pixel, fill it with the foreground color and deselect it. To perform this action, simply select an area to fill and press play.

The Drawing Converter Action

This action will clean up your artwork as demonstrated in Step 4 and also automatically produce your color layers. All you need to do is import your artwork into Photoshop and activate the action.

The Create Specular Action

Specular light is the reflection of the light by an object. In colorization, it means that this is the brightness point of the object. Because I don’t put a Specular Light Layer on every layer, I created an action that allows that. Just by pressing the F3 key, this Action creates a new Specular layer, makes it a Clipping Mask, and put it in Overlay Mode. Then, you can just take a white brush to draw your specular lights.

Conclusion

Coloring artwork can be easy and fun. I hope you learned something new in this tutorial and I look forward to writing some more. If you want some more tips about preparing line work for color check out this great tutorial Preparing Line Drawings for Coloring in Photoshop.

 
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Discussion 15 Comments

Scott Corgan says:

June 15, 2010 at 12:40 pm

No doubt Photoshop is becoming more and more usable for Illustrator type jobs. Great tut!

Reply

PSDhome – Everyday free PHOTOSHOP files says:

June 15, 2010 at 12:49 pm

Very nice design work. Thanks a lot.

Reply

Childmonster says:

June 15, 2010 at 1:34 pm

Very fun haahha…

Reply

Manderson says:

June 15, 2010 at 1:58 pm

I just finished coloring up a children’s book for one of my clients this way – almost exactly the same process.

The only tip I have is to keep separate colors/sections on separate layers. You’ll end up with 50+ layers in a file, but it allows you to easily switch out colors on the fly as the client demands.

I’d set the ink/sketch on the top layer to multiply on top of a base white layer. All the color layers sit in the middle.

Reply

Zicooo says:

June 15, 2010 at 3:45 pm

Good Tut with a very helpful tip :)

Reply

Agodesa says:

June 15, 2010 at 4:20 pm

Great Tut dude!

Reply

TwitterUniQue says:

June 15, 2010 at 4:37 pm

that was funny , Thanks a lot

Reply

news in pakistan says:

June 15, 2010 at 6:10 pm

wht a idea nyc

Reply

AEVION says:

June 15, 2010 at 8:48 pm

What the hell are you talking about?

Reply

Da Buddha says:

June 16, 2010 at 6:52 pm

Haha, I thought the same thing.
Dyslexia much? But I don’t see what nyc (New York City) has to do with this.

Bryan G. C. says:

June 17, 2010 at 12:33 pm

I think he said “What a nice idea”.

adeenbgt says:

June 16, 2010 at 1:58 am

Nice Inspirations tutor comic

Reply

PsdDude says:

June 16, 2010 at 3:47 am

Funny and useful :) thanks

Reply

WebGuide4U says:

June 16, 2010 at 4:24 am

great tut end with handy tips, thanks for the share

Reply

Christopher Campbell says:

June 16, 2010 at 9:18 am

Great tutorial for those starting out in Photoshop to illustrate their drawings. I could have really found this useful when I was a bit younger and did more of this type of work! :)

Reply

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Give a Medieval Game Logo a Rough Stone Look – Basix

Resources

The following resources were used during the production of this tutorial.

Stained Concrete
Concrete Texture

Step 1

Create a new document that is 1200×750 px and download the Caribbean font. Then, type out the title of the game as shown.

Once you are done, rasterize both layers and duplicate them. Take those two layers and merge them together. Finally, duplicate that layer, send it to the back and add a 24 px stroke to it using a layer style.

Step 2

Now merge the layer with the stroke with an empty layer to rasterize the stroke and get rid of the layer style. Then use the Paint Bucket to fill in the gaps between the letters.

Step 3

To add texture to the word “medieval.” place the Stained Concrete texture over the text. Then use the magic want tool to obtain a selection of the word “medieval.” Now select the texture layer and select Cmd + J to create a new layer using the selection.

Step 4

Select the new texture Medieval layer and go to layer style then check “bevel and emboss” and enter the values like its shown below.

Step 5

To make the bevel effect more prominent, dodge and burn it as shown below. The red brushes are “dodge” and the yellow brushes are “burn”.

Step 6

Use this Concrete Texture to add to the word “game.” Repeat Step 3 to achieve a similar result as below.

Step 7

Now select the new textured game layer and go to layer style, then check “bevel and emboss” and enter the values like its shown below.

Step 8

Choose the black stroke layer and go to “bevel and emboss” and enter the values as shown below.

Step 9

Now choose the black stroke layer and apply a gradient like the one shown below.

Step 10

Use this Concrete Texture as a background, after you add it, make a duplicate, go to filter > sharpen > sharpen and lower the opacity of the duplicated layer to about 60%. Now select the brush tool and chose a nice rounded brush around 200 pt, and select black color and set the opacity to about 60%, add a new layer above the texture and start drawing on the edges of the canvas, to get something like below.

Step 11

Now duplicate the layer with the black brush on the edges and set the first layer to “overlay” and the second to “normal.”

Step 12

On top of all layers make a new layer to add some highlight/reflections. On the text choose a 1pt brush and set color to white, and the opacity to 70% and start drawing on the edges of the text, to make the edges more polished and shiny, this will make the logo look more detailed and realistic. See the image below for details.

Final Image

Well, that’s it! The final image is below. I hope you’ve learned something and please let me know if you have any questions.

Quick Tip: Add a Frosted Background to Photo Captions

Step 1

Open up any image in Photoshop. I used an autumn photo. You can use a similar one if you like. Otherwise, any image will do. Unlock the background layer by double clicking on the layer, call it “Leaves”.

Step 2

Create a new layer (Cmd (Ctrl) + Shift + N) on top of the Leaves layer, and call it “Frosted Bar”. Using the Rectangle Marquee tool (M) making sure you’re on the Frosted Bar layer, drag out a selection of the bar size that you desire, making sure it touches both sides of the document. The placement of the bar is up to you; in my case I am putting it down at the bottom of the image as shown.

Step 3

Fill in the selection using the Paint Bucket tool (G) with white (#FFFFFF) and deselect the current selection (Cmd (Ctrl) + D).

Step 4

Apply the following layer styles to the “Frosted Bar” Layer. (Blending Options: Custom – Set Fill Opacity to 20% under Advanced Blending)

Stroke: Using white (#FFFFFF) with size set to 2 and position outside and 50% opacity.

Step 5

We will need to edit our original image so it’s best to make a duplicate copy so we can always reverse it. So with the Leaves layer selected duplicate it (Cmd (Ctrl) + J). With the “copy Leaves” layer selected, load the frosted bar selection again by Cmd (Ctrl) + clicking the Frosted Bar layer icon. Apply a Gaussian Blur (Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur) input 20 as the radius and click OK.

Step 6

With the basis of our frosted bar created, we can now apply highlights. Create a new layer (Cmd (Ctrl) + Shift + N) on top of the Frosted Bar layer, and call it “Highlights”. Load the Frosted Bar selection again if you have not got it already selected, and select the Brush tool (B). Using a large soft brush (500px, no hardness and White as the colour: #FFFFFF) paint highlights in the middle of the bar, both on top and below (as seen below), finally drop the opacity down of the layer to 60%.

Step 7

Our final step is to add text. Using the Text tool (T) add whatever text you want within the bar at whatever size suits you (In our case out font size is 100px). Drop the opacity down to 40% on the text, and change the blending mode to Overlay, and that’s it.

Final Image

Take a look at the final image. Hope you enjoyed the tutorial!

Adrenaline Filled Car Chase Scene

Posted by admin On June - 17 - 2010ADD COMMENTS

Create an Adrenaline Filled Car Chase Scene

Resources

The following images were used during the production of this tutorial.

Background
Sports Car
Cop Car
Gunman

Preparation

First we need to look at some photographs of cars in motion for reference so that our portrayal is accurate. Here, here, here and here are some good references from photographers on deviantart. If you search the internet I’m sure there are more examples to find. We will be trying to create an image like those but with things being blown up and cars being shots at.

Please note that brush sizes are not given as I usually just increase or decrease them using [ and ] respectively till I get an appropriate size rather than just using a certain size. Colours are given with a # in front of them. In terms of brushing Soft Brush usually refers to a round brush with a soft or blurry edge while a Hard Brush is referring to a round brush that has a well defined border.

Step 1

Open up Background.jpg in a new document. As you can see its quite a high resolution picture and this will enable us to work at a high resolution which has its advantages in being able to add more details and being able to print at larger sizes. On the other hand it be slower to use filters and others tools especially if your PC is slightly older and slower. Its a trade off and you have to choose how big you want to work and resize to a desired size using Image > Image Size. The rest of the tutorial is in relative to this layer so you can choose whatever size you think works best for you.

Step 2

Open up Sports Car stock in a new document. We need to isolate the car from its background. Use your preferred selection technique to select the white background of the Sports Car stock. Personally I prefer using the Pen Tool (P) to manually select the background. After selecting the background you can remove it by adding a Layer Mask to it. I prefer isolating stock in a separate document to the main file because it means you don’t have to resize the stock, because of differences in canvas size between the stock and main file, before isolating it.

Step 3

Import the Sports Car image into the file with Background.jpg. Using the Free Transform Tool (Ctrl+T) flip the car horizontally by adding – before the figure in the W: box. Then resize, move and rotate the car so that it fits into the background better, don’t worry if it isn’t perfect at this stage as well will be modify the car a lot in subsequent sets. You can see some of the numbers I used for making the car fit in the image below.

Note: Don’t be fooled by the – in front of the H: box, I had initially put the – in the W but the rotation added after changed it to a minus in the H box.

Step 4

Duplicate the Background Layer. If you look at the references in the introduction you can see the background is blurred and to achieve this we are going use Filter > Blur > Radial Blur on the duplicated layer. The settings used are shown in the image below. It is very important to get the blur center absolutely right, keep doing and undoing the Radial Blur until the center looks correct to give a good perspective on the road.

Step 5

Add a layer mask to the duplicated Background layer and using a Soft Black Brush at about 20% opacity brush into the layer mask to remove some of the blur to bring out some details from the background.

Step 6

Now we are going to go back to the Sports Car layer to make it fit better into the scene. Start by transforming it using Edit > Transform > Perspective and Edit > Transform > Skew. There is no exact method to this, just use the various transforming tools to make the perspective and proportions of the car fit into the scene.

Step 7

Now we are going to the blur the wheels of the car so they look as if they are in motion. Select the rear rims using the Pen Tool (P) and use Filter > Blur > Radial Blur. For settings have Blur Amount: 10, Blur Method: Spin and Blur Center slightly down and left of centre.

Afterwards select the front rims in the same way and apply Radial Blur but this time with Blur Amount: 50, Quality: Best and Blur Center slightly up and right of center

Step 8

Now we are going to remove the white in the car windows. Select the white areas using the Magic Wand Tool with a tolerance of 32, Shift + Left Click to add multiple areas. This will also select some of the white of the card hood. Deselect it by using the lasso tool around it while holding the Alt key. Then delete by pressing the delete key.

Erase some of the seat seen through the front window using a Soft Brush at about 20% Opacity. We will be going back to the windows at a later stage so don’t worry too much about the details.

Step 9

Now to a add to shadow to the underside of the car. Create a New Layer (Ctrl + Shift + N), name it “Soft Shadow” and drag it under the “Sports Car” layer. Start with a Soft Black Brush at 100% Opacity and brush the underside of the car using a Soft Eraser at 100% Opacity to erase any mistakes.

Add a Radial Blur Filter to the layer with Blur Amount: 50, Blur Method: Zoom, Quality: Medium and the Blur Center roughly the same as we used for the background in Step 4. Now set the layer Blending Mode to Soft Light and the Opacity to 75%. If any areas look like they need more shadow add it with a Soft Black brush at 20% Opacity.

Step 10

Create a New Layer above the “Soft Shadow” and name it “Hard Shadow.” Get a Soft Blue (#00ffff) Brush and brush in the immediate underside of the car. Apply a Radial Blur to it with the same settings as the last step but with Amount: 30. Set this layer to Hard Light with Opacity 10%.

Step 11

Now to fix the lighting. Use Image > Adjustments > Brightness/Contrast with Brightness: -75 and Contrast :5. Then using Dodge and Burn tools at Range: Midtones and Exposure:20% give the car some highlight and shadows.

Step 12

Make a New Group (Cmd + G). Name it “Window” and drag it above the “Sports Car” layer. Create a New Layer in it and using a soft black brush at 70% Opacity brush in the side of the windows to make them slightly darker, this will be the shading for the windows. Then set the layer to Opacity 50% .

Create a New Layer (Cmd + Shift + N) above the previous then using a Soft Brush at 100% Opacity with # 2b1e05 brush in all the windows. Set the Blend Mode to Soft Light and Opacity to 70%.

In another new layer using a Soft Brush at 100% Opacity with # 103624 brush in all the windows like before. This time set the Blend Mode to Hard Light and Opacity to 80%.

Step 13

Lets add some reflections in the windows. Create a New Group (Cmd + G), name it reflection and drag it under the “Windows” group. Create a new layer in the new group and using the Eye Dropper Tool (I) select some coloured highlights from the background and brush them into the front windows with a Hard Round Brush at 100% Opacity.

Then do a Filter > Blur > Blur Motion to this layer with Angle : -9 and Distance: 30. Now there will be bit of ‘reflection’ on the car and background. To get rid of this we are going to select the layer below, with the # 103624 windows, by Cmd + Left Click on it and then selecting inverse with Cmd + Shift + I and deleting to remove colour outside the windows. Then change the layer to Hard Light and Opacity to 60%

Now we are going to do the same thing to the side windows on a new layer. The only difference is that the motion blur is at Angle: 5 this time.

Step 14

Lets add some motion blur to the car to give it a sense of movement. Duplicate the Sports car layer and move into a New Group called “Blur” above the “Reflection” group. While the layer is select do Layer > Layer Mask > Apply, if you isolated with a Layer Mask. This leaves the layer with just the car with no white background and no layer mask. Apply a Filter > Blur > Motion Blur to it with Angle: -9, Distance: 50.

Duplicate the layer with the motion blur. Set the original layer with the motion blur to 40% Opacity. On the duplicated layer using a Soft Eraser at 100% Opacity erase the parts of the blur which are covering the car and the repeat the Motion Blur filter by pressing Cmd + F.

Step 15

Let’s add some lights to the car. Make a new Group called “Front Lights” and drag it to the top of all the other layers. Select All (Cmd + A) and Copy Merged (Cmd + Shift + C). This is layer is not going to be part of the final image, its only use is to help get the center of the Filter > Render > Lens flare where light would leave the head lights. Click ok on the filter and check that the flare is coming from where it should be and then delete the layer.

Create a new layer and fill it with black. Go to Filter > Render > Lens Flare and this time keep the flare center the same as before but change the brightness to 40% and Lens Type to 105mm Prime. Then change the Blend Mode to Linear Dodge and Opacity to 25%. We need to illuminate the light on the cars left side as well so on the same layer do another Lens Flare but this time have the Flare Center slightly right and above the previous one and the Brightness: 20%. You can use another Copy Merged layer to get the position of the Flare Center spot on if you want.

Step 16

Create a New Layer above the previous one with the flares and using a Soft Brush with #6dcff6 and 80% Opacity brush around the two headlights. Set this layer to Hard Light with 50% Opacity.

Step 17

Using a Soft White Brush at 100% draw three lines on the near head light as seen on the image below. Then do a Radial Blur to the layer with the same Blur Center as we used for the background, Blur Quality: Medium and Blur Amount: 50. Name the layer “Head Light”.

Step 18

Duplicate the “Head Light” layer. Using the Free Transform Tool (Ctrl + T) resize and rotate it like in the image below. Select both the “Head Light” Layer and the “Head Light Copy” Layer and then Right Click on them and Merge Layers. Name the merged layer “Head Light Right”

Step 19

Duplicate the “Head Light Right” layer and using the Free Transform Tool (Ctrl + T) move it and resize it so it fits well into a role as the left head light. Name this “Head Light Left”. Using a Soft Eraser at 100% Opacity erase the parts of the light that would be blocked by the car. The lights are a little too bright so change both Head Light layers Opacity to 80%

Step 20

Create a New Layer above the previous one with the light and using a Soft Brush with #fff200 and 100% Opacity brush around the two headlights. Set this layer to Overlay with 10% Opacity.

Step 21

Now make a new Group called “Rear Lights” and you guessed it we are going to put the rear lights here. Duplicate the “Head Light Right” and using the Free Transform Tool (Ctrl + T) move, rotate and resize it so it fits in as the light from the rear. Duplicate this layer and rotate it and resize it again as shown below. Right click on this duplicated layer and Merge Down. Name this new layer “Head Light Rear” and change its opacity to 70%.

Step 22

Create a New Layer above “Head Light Rear” and using a Soft Brush with #fd8a8a and 100% Opacity brush around on the rear headlight.. Set this layer to Vivid Light with 25% Opacity.

Step 23

Create a New Group called “Floor”. Drag it below the two head light groups. Zoom out of the image to about 50%. Using the Pen Tool (P) draw a line from outsize the bottom right corner to the where the blur center from the radial blur is.

Now to change the Brush Preset which you can find in the Brushes window, to access it you have to have the Brush Tool (B) selected. Load the Square Brushes brush set which should be one that comes as standard with Photoshop and choose the biggest square brush. Then change the settings as shown in the image below (adjust the Brush Size and Spacing to the needs of the canvas size your working on but the other settings should be the same).

When the Brush Presets have been set go to the Pen Tool (P) again and right click on the image and select Stroke path. In the next box choose Brush and tick the Stimulate Pressure box. You should now have some road lines. Move and rotate the lines with the Free Transform tool so they fit in better and then do a Radial Blur on them with the same Blur Center as for the background with 50% on Amount.

Then using the Eraser at 100% opacity erase parts of the lines to make it look like its fading in to the distance. Set the layer to Hard Light and 75% Opacity and to finish name the layer “Road Markings” so you don’t forgot what it is in the future.

Step 24

In a new layer, paint on various bright colours selected from the background using the Eyedropper Tool (I) to the side of the car and the road. Use a variety to bright colours on the car body for highlights while using mainly red on the floor. Use Cmd + F to repeat the previous Radial Blur filter to blend the colours in nicely and then set the layer to Overlay and 20% Opacity.

Step 25

Make a New Layer called “Front Light”. Using a White Soft Brush of varying size and opacity as shown in the image below brush in the some more light coming from the head light. Then using a small black brush draw some black lines into the white light to give it depth. Do a Radial Blur to the layer with the same settings as before expect Blur Amount: 30 to blend it all together and then set the layer to Hard Light 15%.

Step 26

The left side of the road looks a little too bright so lets make it darker. Make a New Layer and using a Soft Black Brush at 100% Opacity brush in the areas that look a little too light. Set this layer to Overlay and 25% Opacity and using a large Soft Eraser at 25% Opacity to brush away the parts that are darker than they should be. Use your own discretion, Cmd + Z is your friend.

There is still a very light area left (pointed out above) which is from the background and we need to cover it up. Create a new layer and using some of the brown tones from the background by way of the Eyedropper Tool (I) colour in the ground with a 100% Opacity Soft Brush. Use a Soft Eraser at 20% Opacity to make it blend in with the background.

Step 27

That’s it for this car. Make a New Group called the “Leading Car” and drag all the Groups with their layers from the previous steps, expect for “Background”. This is just to keep the file organized as we will still need to add a lot more elements to complete the piece. Create a New Group called Explosion and place under ” Leading Car” but above “Background”.

Step 28

Create a New Layer in the “Explosion” Group. We could use a stock to make the explosion but its more interesting to create our own and I feel this will fit the piece better as well even if it may not be that realistic. First select a Soft Round Brush and go into Brush Presets and give it the settings below.

Now we are going to brush in the basic shape and colour of the explosion. I have outlined below the steps that I used as well as the colours, a brush of Opacity 100% was used throughout. This part is all about trial and error, the beauty of working on a computer is you that you can use Undo. After the brushing is done apply a Zoom Radial Blur of Amount:40, with the same center as earlier. to the layer.

Step 29

Move and Free Transform the layer so that the explosion fits into the scene better, you want it to be where the horizon would be. Create a New Layer and drag it below the one with the explosion. Use a 60% Opacity Soft Brush with #f3d711 to brush under the explosion on this layer, and then reduce the brush opacity to 10% and use Black to give the yellow some shadows. Select the layer above, Right Click and Merge Below and name the layer “Boom!”.

Step 30

Add a Layer Mask to the “Boom!” layer and remove the bottom part of the explosion by painting with a black brush inside the layer mask. Then Create a New Layer and Right Click on it and select Create Clipping Mask. We are to shade the explosion below in this layer so use a black brush with low opacity to add shadows and a white brush for highlights.

Then use a Hue/Saturation (Cmd + U) on the “Boom!” layer with Hue: +3 Saturation: -15 & Lightness: -3.

Use the Dodge and Burn (Midtones) tools on the layer to accentuate the shadows and highlights to give more depth. The dark spots also looked out of place so use a small eyedropped Soft Yellow Brush of 30% Opacity to hide them.

Step 31

To finish of the explosion Create a New Layer and draw a big dot around the explosion with a Soft #fff000 Brush at 100% Opacity, this will be the glow from the explosion. Erase the bottom half of the glow with a 20% Opacity Soft Eraser and set the layer to Overlay at 20%.

Step 32

Now lets add a car chasing the leading car to give the piece even more drama. Create a New Group and name it “Police”. Place it above the “Explosion” Group but under the “Leading Car” one.

Open the Cop Car stock and isolate the car from background like you did for the Sports Car and similarly duplicate it into the file we are working on. Drag it into the “Police” group and use the Free Transfrom (Cmd + T) tool to resize and move it into a appropriate position for it to be in pursuit of the Sports Car. Name the layer “Cop Car”

Step 33

Let’s transform this Cop Car just like we did for the Sports Car. The tools used can be found under Edit > Transform. The steps are shown in the image below.

Step 34

Go to Image > Adjustments > Brightness/Contrast on the layer with Brightness: -12 and Contrast: -26. Then create a New Layer and add it as a Clipping Mask. In this new layer use a Soft #fff000 Brush with 30% brush in the right side of the Cop Car (your left) to show the light it would be receiving from the explosion in the background.

Step 35

Now let’s add shadows to the Cop Car just like we did for the Sports Car. Create a New Layer under the “Cop Car” layer and name it “Soft Shadow”. Using a Soft Black Brush at 100% Opacity lets colour in a Shadow. When done use a Zoom Radial Blur filter on it with the same center as always with Amount: 50. Set this layer to Soft Light at 75% Opacity.

Step 36

Create a New Layer above the “Soft Shadow” and name it “Hard Shadow” just like for the Sports Car but this time use a Soft Black Brush to brush in the immediate underside. Leave the Blend Mode on just Normal this time but change the Opacity to 80%

Step 37

Create a new New Group within “Police” and name it “Lights”, this new sub group needs to be above the others layer in “Police”. Create a New Layer in it and name it “Head Lights”. Using a White Soft Brush at 100% Opacity paint two dots that cover the two headlight/ Then reduce the opacity to 50% but increase the brush size to almost double its original size and paint on the two dots to give them a glow. Change this is layer’s Opacity to 80% to finish giving the Cop Car head lights.

Step 38

Create a New Layer above “Head Lights” and name it “Red”. We are going to make the red portion of the Cop Car’s emergency light on this layer. Using a Red (#ff0000) Soft Brush at 100% Opacity paint a big red dot on left emergency light on the top of the car and the right emergency light on the grill of the car. Then reduce the Brush Opacity to 50% and brush around these two dots to give them a glow then set the layer to Overlay.

Step 39

Now Create a New Layer above “Red” and name it “Blue”. Using a Blue (#0000ff) Soft Brush at 100% Opacity paint big dot like before on top of the car and the grill but on the opposite side this time. Then reduce the Brush Opacity to 30% and brush around these two dots to give them a glow but don’t make it as wide as the red glow because emergency lights often work out of phase to each other so one light will be bright on one side of the will the other will be bright on the other side of the car which we can’t see. Then set the layer to Soft Light.

Step 40

That’s it for the Cop Car. Now let’s add a gun man in the leading car shooting at the cop cops, what’s an action seen without some gunfire? Create a New Group and named it “Gunman” and place it above the “Leading Car” group.

Open the Gunman stock and isolate him from background just like you did for the two stocks previously and similarly duplicate him into the file. Drag it into the “Gunman” group and using the Free Transform (Cmd + T) tool resize and move it so it looks like the man is leaning out of the window.

Step 41

Now its time to get transforming again. You should know the drill by now; the process is shown in the images below.

Step 42

If you isolated the image with a Layer Mask go into it if not make a new one on the layer with the stock. Using a Black Brush of 80% mask the bit of the gunman that would be seen through the glass. Use a 100% opaque Brush to mask parts that would be hidden by the car.

Step 43

Use Dodge & Burn (Midtones) to shade the gunman. A little guide and side by side comparison of before and after is given below.

Step 44

Create a New Group within the “Gunman” group and name it “Bullets”. Make a New Layer called “Light Trail” in it. Now we are going to paint on some gunfire coming from the gun. For this we are going to use a brush that comes as standard with Photoshop, to find in the brush selection menu choose Reset Brushes and from the selection of brushes choose the one shown below. Choose a appropriate brush size to cover the barrel of the gun and paint on top of it with 100% Opacity in White. Then use [ to decrease brush size and paint the trail of light coming from the barrel of the gun. Apply a Filter > Blur > Motion Blur to this layer with Angle: 4 and Distance: 5 to finish off the “Light Trail”.

Step 45

To finish off the bullets let’s add some glow to them. Get a Soft #fff200 Round Brush at 100% and draw a big dot around with the centre where the light trail is. Reduce the brush Opacity to 50% and draw an even bigger dot on top of the one you just drew. Use a 70% Opacity Round Eraser and eraser the yellow from where the light would be obstructed by the car and set the layer to Vivid Light Opacity 30%.

Step 46

That’s it for the piece as far as adding elements are concerned. Hopefully you have learned quite a bit already. Now all we have to do is polish up the piece with a few adjustments to finish it off. Below is the image so far. Make a New Group called “Adjustments” on top of all the other groups and you guessed it we are going to put our Adjustment Layers here.

Step 47

Adjustment Layers can be reached either by Layer > New Adjustment layer or by clicking on the black/white icon in the Layers window which is shown below. Most of these adjustments are to finish the piece to my personal preference. Experiment with the adjustments settings as they have a big visual impact on the final product, I will outline what I did below.

Let’s start of off with a Levels layer. The aim of the layer is improve the contrast in the piece and the values used are shown below.

Afterwards make a Black and White Adjustment Layer with the values give in the image and set that layer to Overlay 15%.

Step 48

Now let’s add some Gradient Maps to the piece, they too can be found under Adjustment Layers. In the Box for Gradient Map click on the drop down menu and then the arrow and choose Color Harmonies 1. In this selection of gradients use the orange and blue one shown below and set layer on Color at 15% Opacity.

Now add another Gradient Map from the Color Harmonies 1 set called Red-Orange, Blue-Green. On Gradient options tick Reverse and press OK. Erase the parts of the Gradient Map that affect the more foreground elements of the piece and then set it to Soft Light 20%. This will help give the piece more depth.

Step 49

We are now going to create our penultimate layer. We are going to start this layer differently by first changing the layer blend mode Soft Light and Opacity to 30%, this is to enable us to directly see the effect this layer will have on the rest of the picture. Now use the Gradient Tool with a White to Black, Radial Gradient on 100% Opacity to make a gradient as shown in the image. The aim of this layer is to increase the attention given to the foreground elements by lighting them while darkening the background ones.

Step 50

This is will be our last layer, finally! Select All (Cmd + A), Copy Merged (Cmd + Shift + C) and Paste (Cmd +V) to get a layer with the image so far. Do a Filter > Other > High Pass with a Radius of 1.0 and set it to overlay to give the image a slight sharpen to finish it off.

Conclusion

So that’s it! See all the action we can create from just four stationary pieces of stocks. Hope it was an interesting read for you and that you have picked up some nifty tips, tricks and techniques you can use and even improve upon to great create future works.

Create a Magical Flaming Heart Illustration in Photoshop – Basix

Resources Used

Concrete Texture
Fire
Aladdin’s Lamp

Step 1

Create a new document 1920 x 1080. Download the Concrete Texture that we created in our Create Metallic Texture Tutorial some weeks back.

Step 2

Download Aladdin’s Lamp and place at shown below. Desaturate it using Cmd + Shift + U.

Step 3

Add a shadow for the lamp. Create a new layer and name it “Lamp Shadow.” Using the “Ellipse Marquee Tool” create a selection as shown below.

Step 4

Right click into selection and select “add feather” with value of “3px” and fill with black.

Step 5

Move the “lamp shadow” a little bit up and to the right as shown below.

Step 6

Now before we start adding fire to the lamp, we need references to help things along. Create a new layer on top of all layers and name it “start stroke” and then using “Pen Tool” create a path as shown.

Step 7

Open the Brush Palette and prepare a brush to use to stroke our path.

Step 8

Select the “start stroke” layer, grab the pen tool, right click and choose the Stroke path option.

Step 9

Lower the opacity of the “start stroke” layer to 10% or 20%.

Step 10

Download the Fire image and open it Photoshop. Open Channels and duplicate the Red Channel.

Step 11

Go to Image > Adjustment > Curves and apply the settings below.

Step 12

Now press Cmd and click on this Channel to load a selection or go to Select > Load Selection and press okay.

Step 13

Now come back to the layer panel and simply copy it and past it into your working document. Name this layer “fire flame”.

Step 14

Press Cmd + T to scale it down.

Step 15

Using the lasso tool, create a selection around bottom flame and then press Cmd + Shift + J. This will separate both flames.

Step 16

For now we need only the bottom flame so hide the top flame for now.

Step 17

Duplicate the bottom flame layer as a backup and then press Cmd + T to scale it down a little. Press Cmd + T, right click and choose warp.

Step 18

Now let’s delete some unneeded areas. Using the lasso or pen tool make a selection as shown below. In the coming steps you will have a lot of flames so be sure to name the flames properly so you can recognize them later on.

Step 19

Duplicate the big flame layer and name it “stroke_flame_2″ scale it down and warp it as before.

Step 20

Again, Duplicate the big flame layer and name it “stroke_flame_3.”

Step 21

Now, let’s reveal the top flame that we hid earlier. Duplicate it and name it “stroke_flame_4.” Bring it above all other layers, scale it down a little bit and warp it as shown.

Step 22

Now that we have successfully created first part of the flame we don’t need the reference stroke that we created earlier. Delete it.

Step 23

You may have noticed that the middle flame is colored differently than the others. Go ahead and edit it’s saturation as shown below to make look more realistic. To do this go to Image > Adjustment > Hue/Saturation.

Step 24

Before we start work on the heart all flames and place them into a folder.

Step 25

Now we are going to start work on the heart. Before we begin, we need to create a reference heart like we did for the flame strokes. You can find a nice heart example in Photoshops’s default custom shapes folder. Create a new layer, name it “heart reference”. Pick the heart shape from Photoshop’s custom shapes. Draw it and fill it with white color. Lower its opacity to 10%.

Step 26

We will use the same technique for the heart as we did for the lamp. Before you begin the process, make sure that you edit the saturation so we don’t run into the same problems as we did in Step 23.

Step 27

Duplicate the bottom flame and name it “heart_flame_1″ and bring it above all other layers. Warp as shown.

Step 28

Remove unneeded elements and then go to Filter > Liquify and warp flame as shown.

Step 29

Duplicate the big flame, name it “heart_flame_2″ and rotate it, warp it and remove unneeded elements.

Step 30

Select both “heart_flame_1″ and “heart_flame_2″ duplicate them by dragging them to the new layer icon at the bottom of layer panel. Transform new duplicated as shown. Select all Heart flames and merge them together.

Step 31

Go to Filter > Liquify , and use the warp tool to create some variations.

Step 32

Now let’s work on the inside of the hear. I already made an image that you can use here. Download it here and paste it into your working document as shown.

Step 33

Now you can delete the hear reference layer.

Step 34

Select the “inside heart” layer and go to Filter > Liquify. Warp the edges as shown.

Step 35

The heart is almost done. Select “heart flame” and “inside heart” layer and rotate them as shown.

Step 36

Merge “heart_flame” and “inside heart” and name the new layer “big heart”. Duplicate it and name it “mini heart.” Scale it down using the transform tool (Cmd + T) and place it as shown.

Step 37

Duplicate “stroke_flame_1″ layer and bring it above all other layers to create a trail.

Step 38

You may have noticed that both the trails look a bit unrealistic. To fix this, open the Liquify filter and fix them as shown.

Step 39

Select the big heart’s trail layer which is “stroke_flame_1″ and repeat Step 38.

Step 40

Okay we are done with warping/distortion, now it’s time to paint. Create a new layer above the lamp layer, name it “lamp light” and go to Layer > Create Clipping Mask.

Step 41

Apply the following brush settings: Size: 3px, Roundness: 0px, Opacity: 40px, Flow: 30%, Color: ff8a00.

Step 42

Start painting on lamp’s edges as shown.

Step 43

Change the brush settings as follows Size: 100px, Opactiy: 20%, Flow: 10%.

Step 44

Create a layer below lamp. Call it “lamp glow”. Select transparent gradient tool, color: ff8a00.

Step 45

Add a little glow behind the flames, this will make it look more realistic. So Merge all the flames together and name them “magic flame” but before merging them backup your document. You may need to edit flames individually in future.

Step 46

Duplicate “magic flame” and name it “magic glow”. With “magic glow” selected, Go to filter Blur > Gussian Blur > 10px. Lower its opacity to 60%.

Step 47

Create a new layer above all other layers and name it “Magic Love.” Go to Image > Apply Image.

Conclusion

Once you have everything in one layer, Go to Filter > Shapern > Shapern. You are done!

 
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By Zee7

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Zee7 is a web and graphic designer from Pakistan. He loves everything about art and design and has 3 years of industry experience. Zee7 is also available for freelance design work. You can visit Zee7 online or follow him on Twitter.  


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Add Comment

Discussion 25 Comments

Jonas Lekevicius says:

June 16, 2010 at 9:17 am

I’m sorry to sound moronic, but the outcome doesn’t look good… corners are too sharp, flame is too distorted.

Reply

Marcell says:

June 16, 2010 at 9:19 am

Interesting techniques. Good work.

Reply

mubashar says:

June 16, 2010 at 9:20 am

woO, great work. It would be next valentine wallpaper :-) keep it up.

Reply

Rameexgfx says:

June 16, 2010 at 9:39 am

Amazing tutorial Zulal Bro Thanks for Share…..

Reply

ExtremRaym says:

June 16, 2010 at 9:59 am

i think the heart flaming are too symmetric

But it’s a very precise tuts with a lot of pictures !
+1 ^^

Reply

Jace says:

June 16, 2010 at 10:07 am

Simple steps while staying in depth enough to produce an awesome end product. Well done Zee mate, you’ve done a good job here :)

Reply

ivan says:

June 16, 2010 at 10:09 am

nice… only to see the images i got the idea of how to do it…. great tutorial and if the heart looks too symmetric… you always can change it, this is not a precise tutorial is only like how to do it.

Thanks for share.

Reply

everytuesday says:

June 16, 2010 at 10:29 am

the flame is looking a little like a ribbon in the end to me, but there are some really good tips..many, many spelling errors though..

Reply

PSDhome – Everyday free PHOTOSHOP files says:

June 16, 2010 at 11:43 am

Really really awesome design work. Thanks for tut.

Reply

jk says:

June 16, 2010 at 12:09 pm

nice tutorial! very helpful, and they are well explained. thanks a lot. :) )))

Reply

Martin says:

June 16, 2010 at 12:52 pm

This is what I call an extensive explanation :-) . Good on you!

Reply

llanos73 says:

June 16, 2010 at 2:03 pm

Come on psd tuts!!! I mean, enough with the basic level tutorials!! I mean no disrespect to the designer but seriously??!!! Give us tuts that will be intriguing to the professional bad asses out there! SIGH!!

Reply

Shahrez Rafiq says:

June 16, 2010 at 2:07 pm

Well tut is nice but it looks like it’s filled with some liquid :)
I love it because its pretty detailed.

Reply

André Silva says:

June 16, 2010 at 3:22 pm

There are some interesting tips in this tutorial, mainly for people who don’t know about how to create images based on real fire or smoke. However the final product looks a little bit sharp in my opinion, also the heart shape is to much symmetric, you should create a little bit more random shape, just to give the idea that the flames are moving and not static.

Reply

Andrew says:

June 16, 2010 at 3:59 pm

The final product is alright, I could see these techniques used else where more effectively, and sorry but I have to say that the flames actually look a bit more like water, which is why I think that these techniques have better application else where. But still nice work!

Reply

spiderm0nkey says:

June 16, 2010 at 4:12 pm

Kinda cool actually :) I already have this wallpaper set from a while back on my computer. Neat to see how they were made :)

Reply

news in pakistan says:

June 16, 2010 at 5:55 pm

really awesome thnx for sharing

Reply

Da Buddha says:

June 16, 2010 at 6:56 pm

Damn, that’s creative. It’s pretty amazing how you were able to mold the flames.
Can that flame actually be molded into a flame you would see from a lighter?

Reply

Jeprie says:

June 16, 2010 at 7:01 pm

Nice tips. I think it’s better we keep creating all the fire, not just duplicate and flip it.
Great tutorial. Every beginner should learn this.

Reply

nders says:

June 16, 2010 at 11:33 pm

the outcome is not dynamic and eye-catching enough for my taste, but the techniques are there. Thanks for sharing!

Reply

TwitterUniQue says:

June 17, 2010 at 4:05 am

Great Tutorials i like it !!

Thanks alot

Reply

peter says:

June 17, 2010 at 4:15 am

i always assuming that the efftct like that can only be done in 3D software, i am wrong now…

Reply

SteveCWD says:

June 17, 2010 at 5:24 am

This tutorial has given me a couple of neat typography ideas – thanks very much!

Reply

PsdDude says:

June 17, 2010 at 6:09 am

Nice! I like the hearts very much but the final product might need a little work to obtain that wow factor!

Reply

Dino says:

June 17, 2010 at 7:33 am

Very nice tut and very detailed explanation. Good Job. Thanx

Reply

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